The sand is not as hot as it usually is, it's just warm enough to provide a heated tingling sensation to my feet. As I travel across the smooth sandy surface, every part of me feels energized, alive in the presence of the ocean. The untouched golden sand engulfs my foot in a silky embrace with each step I take. The day is like a hazy summer dream, the sky is littered with beautifully wispy clouds, delicate as if someone gently hand-painted them across the sky. I kneel to drop my board to the ground, and the wetsuit tightly hugs my knees as they bend. I start generously applying surf wax. The sweet smell of the coconut wax and the salt in the air fills my nostrils, the sunlight feels creamy on my back. The whitewash crashing onto the beach truly is a beauty to behold, and the cool delicious saltwater smells just as or more inviting than a home-cooked dinner. The ocean gently laps at my feet, inviting me in. I open my mouth and my tongue is greeted with refreshing particles of salt.
The tonnes of foam lining the coastline seemed almost trivial once Id paddled out past the crashing whitewash on my 8'4" thruster. If I was going to catch waves as big as these I needed the extra length on my board. The rhy...
